Tenaya are a Spanish climbing shoe company which we first discovered when Connie returned from a trip to Spain with a pair of RA’s. Straight away people were interested as the quality was so apparent. Shortly after that we meet up with our northern friends in Font for our annual trip and we noticed Rhys was smashing out 8a’s in his pair of Masai. Since then most of us have stuck exclusively with Tenaya and with their new models Iati and Tarifa I dont see us leaving anytime soon.
Tenaya was founded by Jose Luis Garcia Gallego who has put up first ascents all round the world including Fitz Roy, El Cap (where he has put up an impressive 6 first acsents!) and Mt Watkins which is in the Tenaya Valley, Yosemite. Since that day he has strived to create the best climbing shoes possible which they have done with Josune Bereziartu being the first women to climb a 9a in her pair of Aqua+ and Alex Megos wearing his Oasi on the first onsight of a 9a. Those two massive achievements show there capability but they are also fantastic shoes for newer climbers. Unlike some top end shoes all the Tenayas which we have had (Masai, Oasi, RA, Tarifa and Iati) are shoes you can climb in all day.
One of our Northern mates Ben, has wrote a review on his latest pair of Iati.
Having previously owned two pairs of Tenaya’s Oasi model, I was extremely excited to hear about the introduction of a new shoe based on something I’d already been using exclusively for hard climbing.
Although the Oasi is a truly amazing shoe, I did have some problems with it. One of the main problems was the closure system, which was great out of the box, but seemed to lack longevity and eventually faded and lost grip as the shoe aged. Although this did not compromise the shoes effectiveness due to its unique design, it did present the problem of having two loose straps flapping around on each foot whilst on a route. Tenaya have obviously taken the feedback from their athletes to heart, as they have not only solved this problem, but have actually improved on it.
Whereas before there were two individual straps on each shoe, there is now a fully adjustable equalisation point for each shoe, incorporating both straps into a securely designed velcro pad. This new system looks and feels incredible when utilised and is something I will always have full confidence in.
Another building point that Tenaya have focused on are the shoes toe hooking ability, with a sticky pad of rubber on top of the shoe, which instead of leaving space, really moulds to your toe box to give an improved feeling of sensitivity.
All in all the Iati has the comfort and performance of the Oasi straight out the box, with the added bonus of the new closure technology in an extremely attractive design (Red’s my favourite colour). Definitely the shoe for me.
Thanks to Ben for the review and Rhys for the photos, we will keep you updated on these guys as they are smashing it at the moment!